Tantalum capacitors were used for both C10 and C22, and a variety of other locations on the sound board. I was recently at the Texas Pinball Festival and saw two Black Hole pinball machines and neither had working motors. I connected the polarity to spin counter-clockwise. I attached a connector to the new motor and plugged it into the existing connector on the wire harness. The existing black flat-head screws that hold the disk to the old gear motor are reused to mount the disk to the hub adapter. The screw holes in the front of the motor don’t align with the existing bracket, so I only used a single screw with a lock washer to mount the motor. The hub mounts to the motor, the hub adapter mounts to the hub with the socket head cap screws, and the motor mounts to the machine with the M3 screw. The parts needed to replace these motors are (as of 4-4-2014): QuantityĠ.770” Set Screw Hub for 6 mm shaft, part no. This machine needed a new motor for the spinning disk behind the backglass. Lower playfield after cleaning and replacing broken pop bumper. The oscilloscope showed it was still bad. This isolated pin 11 from the rest of the circuit to make sure that nothing else was interfering with the signal. Since the 6820 was already in a socket, I lifted it out of the socket and bent pin 11 out, then put the 6820 back in. I traced the signal further back to the MPU board to the output of the 6820 PIA (U11, Pin 11). This is neither a digital “1” or “0” and it makes digital circuits act randomly. I checked the input signals to the 74154 and the “B” signal was randomly moving between 1 and 2 volts. I went further back to the output of the 74154 decoder chip (U2) and the signal (pin 15) was still crazy and random looking. The signal going into driver transistor Q11 was going crazy. I started with the signal for the kicker coil, and with the oscilloscope, I traced it back through the solenoid driver board. Basically there was something not right with the solenoid driver circuit. If I pressed on the left pop bumper skirt, the center pop bumper would fire. I also noticed that some of the pop bumpers weren’t firing correctly. When I started a game, the kicker at the outhole started firing randomly, sometimes very rapidly. I started by replacing both playfield fuses since they were blown. Symptoms: Blows playfield coil fuses needs new rubbers and bulbs, cleaning. This switch was simply out of adjustment. They are all common and routed through the normally closed Motor 2B switch. Next, many of the point scoring relays such as the 500 point and 5000 point were not holding though a cycle of the score motor. This fixed the problem with the machine not resetting correctly. I traded the spring from the Hold Relay, where the spring tension is less critical, to the Reset Relay and then re-adjusted the contacts. Next, the relay coil spring on the Reset Relay (AX) had been previously replaced with the wrong one that was much weaker. However, on this machine, there are switch contacts on the credit subtract lever that trigger the Start Relay (S). ![]() On most EM machines, you can disconnect the credit subtract coil to put the game in Free Play mode. This is the rarer electro-mechanical version of this pinball machine. ![]() Coil bracket for pinball machine kicker and slingshot assemblies.Symptoms: Machine not resetting, points not registering, drop targets not resetting, bad light socket, and various other problems.
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